All of a sudden i’ve got stacks to say!! Sorry about this. Just following on from this little trad theme malarky, the two best bits of advice i was ever given for onsighting (trad/sport it don’t matter) was:
1. ALWAYS chalk up your footholds before you commit to a tough move/sequence – it’s a hell of a lot easier to reverse something if you know where your feet are going – that bastard is gospel!!
2. Never underestimate momentum – it’ll carry you through if you use it right.