August 26, 2009 George Foster

Words of Wisdom??

All of a sudden i’ve got stacks to say!! Sorry about this. Just following on from this little trad theme malarky, the two best bits of advice i was ever given for onsighting (trad/sport it don’t matter) was:

1. ALWAYS chalk up your footholds before you commit to a tough move/sequence – it’s a hell of a lot easier to reverse something if you know where your feet are going – that bastard is gospel!!

2. Never underestimate momentum – it’ll carry you through if you use it right.

Shalom.

Comments (2)

  1. Alright George – I was Mr Annonamous on the last post…

    I started doing the chalking up thing this year. Strangely, I got my inspiration from winter climbing, as you often scrape the rime off to find foot and hand holds.

    Unsurprisingly it works well in summer too – does it blow other peoples onsight though?

    As for the second point – do you mean actual, physical momentum, or in more of an abstract sense?

    I use momentum a lot more in bouldering and sport climbing and am a bit more static with trad.

    On the other hand, sometimes, once I’ve committed to a section of climbing, I may “keep up the momentum” by not stopping before a rest, or a piece of gear.

    Ally.

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